- Tuesday at 6:00 AM
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BLJ
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I’m going to pick up a Mission Hammr soon and I’m needing recommendations for an arrow setup.
Going in on a budget and here are my arrow options.
340 9.5 GPI Easton Axis or 400 8.2 GPI Gold Tip Hunters.
Right now the Eastons have a 75 grain insert. GT’s do not.
I’m going to be drawing around 45#@26”.
This setup will be used on WT deer to 40 yards.
Should I go light to get as much speed as I can or go heavy on my arrows?
Also looking for broadhead recommendations.
Magnus seems to be the most commonly recommended for a light/short draw setup. Anything else to look at? Thanks.
- Tuesday at 6:57 AM
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Bump79
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I would recommend Magnus Stinger 1-1/16" with bleeders. The bleeders won't really cost you anything on penetration. Or their single bevel. If you want a more premium you can go Iron Will/Day Six/Valkyrie. Another good budget option would be a Terra Firma 3b SB Gladius. Even less expensive would be a Crimson Talon Cleaver using Lusk's coupon code.
I'd stick with 100 grains and I'd lighten up your setup for a 40 yard shot. I'd run a 400-430 grain arrow. Or honestly I'd really keep it 30 and in for your current arrows. Your 40 yard shot is the equivalent of like a 55 for my 294 fps arrow. Which I'd take on an elk but not a whitetail. There's a lot of misinformation online about animal reaction times that a flat out non-sense. Listen to your common sense, given more time then animal will move more. Whitetails move A LOT.
- Tuesday at 7:06 AM
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Felix40
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I would lean toward the gold tip with a heavy insert. I like their durability and cost. Both of the options you listed seem stiff, thus a weighted insert. Or go to a 500
Magnus stingers are great. I’ve used them a bunch with good success. They could be a little sharper out of the package.
I shot my last longbow buck with a slick trick viper trick. No complaints about penetration. More blood than I usually get with stingers. Much sharper too.
Slick trick is making a two blade now that I’m curious about.
Anything sharp and cut on contact will work good if you tune your bow.
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- Tuesday at 7:30 AM
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Definitely going with a COC broadhead. And Magnus seems to be the front runner so far.
I thought that the 340’s were really stiff for the draw weight. So I assumed that inserts were a given in them.
Would a 75 grain insert be needed with the 400’s as well. And then a 100 grain head? Thanks.
- Tuesday at 7:41 AM
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Bump79
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BLJ said:
Definitely going with a COC broadhead. And Magnus seems to be the front runner so far.
I thought that the 340’s were really stiff for the draw weight. So I assumed that inserts were a given in them.
Would a 75 grain insert be needed with the 400’s as well. And then a 100 grain head? Thanks.
Yeah the 340's are very stiff. The 400 is more appropriate -a 500 is honestly likely ideal unless you load up the front weight on the 400.
Felix40 said:
Slick trick is making a two blade now that I’m curious about.
Yeah it's a nice looking head. However, that price for 420ss blades and a aluminum ferrule is out of this world IMHO. That's a $45 head, not $99.
- Tuesday at 7:57 AM
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You think the 400’s with a 75 grain insert and 125’s? 150’s? Thanks.
- Tuesday at 8:01 AM
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Dennis
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150 grain. I would lean towards heavy with most of the weight in FOC and perfect bare shaft arrow flight. I would lean toward the Magnus single bevel and touch them up for a razor sharp cut. I would rather limit my max range than my arrow lethality.
- Tuesday at 8:12 AM
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For clarification 40 yards is the absolute maximum. Perfect scenario situation.
A lot more likely to be 25-35 yards.
And I understand the necessity of a sharp broadhead.
So I should be looking at a 150 grain Magnus of some sort? Thanks.
- Tuesday at 8:16 AM
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Jfjfrye
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Slick trick original 1” broadheads have been flawless for my wife and sister in law that shoot lower poundage. The pass right through with no issue and leave way bigger than one inch holes.
- Tuesday at 8:40 AM
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Felix40
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The nice thing about a 100 grain broadhead and a weighted insert is that there are 100x more broadheads available in that weight. You can get field points, broadheads, judos at any shop in the country and usually even at Walmart. Any broadhead you want to try will have a 100 grain option. That’s not the case with 150s.
The nice thing about slick tricks or similar razor blade style broadheads is that you don’t have to screw around with sharpening them.
Do you already have the arrows you mentioned? If you do, it wouldn’t hurt anything to shoot them and see how they do. Find a bare shaft tuning instructional and see which one is easier to tune. I don’t think either is optimal but too stiff is better than too weak. The fact is that either one will kill a deer if it’s flying good. Good arrow flight is the single most important factor in penetration and accuracy. There are a million ways that people get there.
- Tuesday at 8:41 AM
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Bump79
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BLJ said:
You think the 400’s with a 75 grain insert and 125’s? 150’s? Thanks.
I'd lean towards a 400 spine with a 50-65 grain insert and 100's or 125's. Use a lighter shaft to save some weight and bump up FOC. There's absolutely nothing wrong with a 400 grain arrow. I'd lean towards being extremely selective on shots and only shooting broadside or quartering away vs bumping up weight.
If you get a 4mm or 5mm 400 spine shaft in the 7.5-8 GPI range then get around 160-175 total up front. That will put you around 420-460 grains. Heavy weight isn't magic but it does help. However, it comes with tradeoffs. Trajectory and animal reaction is big.
What are your hunting conditions? Feeder, preset stands or mobile? How much hunting have you done in the past? If not a lot, I'd really lean towards 25 and in for your setup. Just being brutally honest. At 35 yards your perfect shot location with that slower arrow could very likely be a terrible location by the time it gets there. Again, my arrow is 294 fps and I'm most likely not shooting a WT at 35 unless the conditions are perfect.
- Tuesday at 9:28 AM
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CMF
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Magnus killer bees are good, I've shot them with my 29/70lb bow and had quick kills on deer and elk. My wife is shooting the hammer and I have her set up with the killer bees.
- Tuesday at 9:33 AM
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Beendare
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FWIW, I shoot a 46# recurve...and have killed a pile of critters with it.
I would use the heavier GPI Axis, standard insert with a straight 2 blade in the 125-150g range. I have seen the bleeder blades from a buddies Magnus BH stop dead in bone- so there is that. The straight 2 blades penetrate effortlessly. I wouldn't go below 9 gpi for your arrow shaft.
Tuning for perfect BH arrow flight is a must
I've shot big hogs, moose, etc with that ^ arrow and blew through 12 of 14 critters with it.
- Tuesday at 9:48 AM
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Marshfly
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If you have not bought the Hammr yet I would look hard at some other bows if you are limiting yourself to 45#. One of my son's had one and I was not at all impressed. I bought my other son a Diamond Prism and it as a much better bow IMHO. Smoother, faster at the lower poundage, just a better bow all around.
The bows with the wide poundage setups seem to lose way too much when you drop too far below the max poundage. The Hammr is one of those.
About your question. At 45# he tuned great with 500 spine arrows. My wife shoots 47# and is perfect with 500 spine also. That's at 26.5" with about 200 grains total out front. 400 spine will be better for about 60#.
Her setup is a Victory Rip with the standard SS insert and QAD Exodus 100gr heads. Comes in right about 400gr if I remember correctly.
- Tuesday at 10:28 AM
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Bump79
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Also, on the bow choice. I'd skip the budget lines for the most part. I'd look at a Bear Whitetail Maxx or I'd also consider a leftover new Prime - They get FREE strings and cables every 2 years for life. Though to beat that. Check your local dealer or go here:
PRIME - Inline 1 RH 50-60# (CLOSEOUT)
FULL MANUFACTURE WARRANTY FREE STRINGS EVERY TWO YEARS FOR LIFE NEW 2022 PRIME INLINE 3 ATA - 31" Speed • 337 fps Draw length • INLINE Cam 26”- 30.5” Draw Weight • 60 lbs. (Peak Weight) Brace height • 7” Mass Weight • 4.4 lbs. 2022 Prime Inline Cam System The worlds first ever cam system that...
huntnhouse.com
- Tuesday at 10:41 AM
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@Felix40. I never considered the angle of availability in regards to 100/150 grain head.
I would like to squirrel hunt with this as well so blunts/judo’s would be way easier to find.
@Bump79. Eastern hardwoods and mobile on the ground. Bow hunter off and on for about 30 years. Just trying to gain another season to hunt that I haven’t utilized in the past.
I’d prefer shots to be at 5 yard if and can. And broadside or slightly quartering away.
@Marshfly. I was looking at the Hammr because my local shop carries them and they seem to have good reviews.
And I’ve been shooting my son’s Craze 2 and really like the way it feels.
- Tuesday at 10:43 AM
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Bump79 said:
Also, on the bow choice. I'd skip the budget lines for the most part. I'd look at a Bear Whitetail Maxx or I'd also consider a leftover new Prime - They get FREE strings and cables every 2 years for life. Though to beat that. Check your local dealer or go here:
PRIME - Inline 1 RH 50-60# (CLOSEOUT)
FULL MANUFACTURE WARRANTY FREE STRINGS EVERY TWO YEARS FOR LIFE NEW 2022 PRIME INLINE 3 ATA - 31" Speed • 337 fps Draw length • INLINE Cam 26”- 30.5” Draw Weight • 60 lbs. (Peak Weight) Brace height • 7” Mass Weight • 4.4 lbs. 2022 Prime Inline Cam System The worlds first ever cam system that...
huntnhouse.com
I’ve been looking at the budget lines because that is my budget.
- Tuesday at 10:43 AM
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Marshfly
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BLJ said:
@Felix40. I never considered the angle of availability in regards to 100/150 grain head.
I would like to squirrel hunt with this as well so blunts/judo’s would be way easier to find.@Bump79. Eastern hardwoods and mobile on the ground. Bow hunter off and on for about 30 years. Just trying to gain another season to hunt that I haven’t utilized in the past.
I’d prefer shots to be at 5 yard if and can. And broadside or slightly quartering away.@Marshfly. I was looking at the Hammr because my local shop carries them and they seem to have good reviews.
And I’ve been shooting my son’s Craze 2 and really like the way it feels.
I moved my son from that Hammr to a used Phase4.
Maybe you could look for a used V3 or similar. You could use 55# mods and do a couple of turns out of the bolts. That would be a worlds better bow than any Mission.
- Tuesday at 10:49 AM
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Marshfly
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Regarding the above, I can afford new flagship bows. But after the deal I got on my son's Phase4 I may never buy new again. WAAAAAY too many people buy new and then barely shoot them. Selling almost brand new bows for crazy deals. ArcheryTalk is full of good deals if you watch.
@BLJ are you a lefty? I actually need to sell this Hammr. It is ready to go. I'll even toss in some 500spine arrows for a sweet deal.
- Tuesday at 10:52 AM
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Marshfly said:
Regarding the above, I can afford new flagship bows. But after the deal I got on my son's Phase4 I may never buy new again. WAAAAAY too many people buy new and then barely shoot them. Selling almost brand new bows for crazy deals. ArcheryTalk is full of good deals if you watch.
I agree with this. There’s no way I would spend what some people do on a bow.
Part of the reason I was looking into the cheaper lines if that I do move on to something better, I could give it away to someone else.
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